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WINEMAKING GRAPES
FOR SALE
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Peter Brehm's
Grape Musings
Read Peter's thoughts on our Grape Offerings (click here)
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| Picking Up Grapes |
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| Shipping Grapes |
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| Commercial Wine |
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| Recommended Reading |
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| Harvest Reports |
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Peter's Musings on the 2010 Harvest
| Pinot Noir
Since producing a 1973 Pinot Noir from Winery Lake in the Carneros I have been smitten. My cellar has an abundance of wonderful, incredibly delicious Bordeaux style wines, but the elusive, seductive Burgundy captures my imagination and desire. Like sex it is highly hormonal. My '73 Winery Lake Pinot Noir (a bottle still exists, in repose, at Rene DiRosas' wonderful, modern art preserve) was my personal, first intimate kiss with Pinot Noir. Wonderful wines that displayed a similar but slightly altered character from their Burgundian parents have followed it.
Having experienced and programmed my palate to a French standard, my subsequent successes with Pinot Noir continued to show a difference. A difference that has been exacerbated, as vineyards have been more capable of gathering more; more of everything the soil and light provides. A former employee gave me a Pinot Noir he helped produce while working at Crush Pad in San Francisco. He was proud of his winemaking. The grapes were from the San Lucia Highlands in Monterrey. The wine was black, the tannins and acids were balanced, and the weight and depth of the wine was immense. Oak played a large, enjoyable component of the taste and there was fruit flavor. I am sure the client was over joyed with the wine.
I would rather have a nice blend of Napa/Sonoma Cab and Carneros Merlot. I do not want NFL tackles doing my Pinot Noir ballet. Aromatics, aromatics and vivaciousness laced with brightness and flavored with fruit and soil. This is what I want from my Pinot Noir dancers. They should be soccer strikers, or NFL wide receivers. Unfortunately some of these attributes do take considerable bottle age to develop.
Brehm Vineyards is proud to offer two different Pinot Noirs for the 2010 vintage. 625 miles separate them. Both express themselves well has to their variety in two different ways. Francis Mahoney has been specializing in Carneros Pinot Noir since the late 1970's. He has been a friend of mine and home winemakers for as long. Francis's latest masterwork has been Las Brisas Vineyard, in the coolest portion of the Carneros. Our customers have been pleased with the true rendition of Pinot Noir expressed from this vineyard. We have sold out our allotment year after year. This Pinot Noir expresses it self rather early with good color, charming aromas and taste. 2010 is off to a very cool, late start. Francis and I will harvest the best from Las Brisas this year and not restrict ourselves to just clones 510 or swan. The fruit will be from clones 510, 777, 667 and swan and determined by us at harvest. Quality will be the standard.
My particular Pinot Noir passion brought me to the east slope of the Cascade Mountains. I became impressed with the similarities of the Willamette Pinot Noirs to those of Burgundy - a vibrant quality in aromatics and taste. A taste of ripe Pinot Noir from Underwood Mountain in 1987 matched my desired taste profile. Today I have 10 to 15 year old Pinot Noir vines producing grapes that have met my expectations. The vines are mostly clone 510. They are unirrigated, tightly planted (1,450 per acre) in a well-kept, dry farmed, untilled vineyard. To my taste the WSV Pinot Noirs, when given adequate bottle age are wonderful. The 2009 is showing well in the barrel and promise to be the best yet. Times are tough; treat yourself to one of the finest wine experiences at a very humble price.
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| Chardonnay
Two cool climate Chardonnays are available. These are classic standards of premium North Coast California and Northwest Chardonnays.
Brehm Vineyards has been harvesting the Sangiacomo Home Ranch since 1986, the same mature vines. We have explored Chardonnay from Santa Barbara to Prosser, WA. The Home Ranch of the Sangicomo Family Vineyard in the Sonoma Carneros district represents the epitome of the finest California Chardonnay. Reliably exceptional Chardonnay used by the finest wineries in Napa and Sonoma.
White Salmon Vineyards grows some of the finest Chardonnay of the Northwest. As in the Pinot Noir, the grapes reflect the differences and highlight the best differences between these two viticultural regions. The WSV vines are mature with 10 to 15 years age. They are grown without irrigation. They have classic Chardonnay aromas and taste, with good sugar and balanced acidity/pH. They are lighter in weight than Sangiacomo's, while being brighter in flavor. WSV chardonnays have proven to age with quality and elegance much longer than fine wines made from California Chardonnay. Dry farming, tight planting, no till farming, no fertilizers, shorter growing season with longer hours of sunshine per day all probably contribute to the distinction between the northern and southern fruit.
After 22 years of procuring grapes and making wine in the Columbia Gorge, I believe another significant difference is the temperatures the grapes are subjected to after verision. Once the grape starts its process of accumulating sugar, making itself delectable to every bird in the neighborhood, the differences in climate are dramatic. The coastal regions of California are periodically and traditionally subjected to blazing hot 'Santa Ana' winds during the last days of August thru the first days of October. It is not uncommon to see grapes accumulate 1° to 2° brix in a day; fat berries turn to raisins. We now turn on the water or quickly harvest before the heat. In the Columbia Gorge the beginnings of verision coincides with the decline of the sun to the south. After the first of September there are few, if any hot days.
In 2009 we had snow flurries on October 13th - this was unusual! My point is: the last ripening of the grapes is critical in molding its personality.
There are a few clones of Chardonnay grown at White Salmon Vineyards. The chardonnay offered is a blend of a Wente clone and Dijon clones 95, 96 & 76. There is another unique clone provided to me by a person I know quite well. It is reputed to be from one of the finest Chardonnay vineyards. It is different than the other clones we grow. It has a subtle, different character that is positive. The vines are mature and dry farmed as all the Chardonnay. We call it the Estate clone. This is the first time it has been offered to home winemakers.
While the California Current and west to east wind patterns maintain a pattern similar to Bordeaux, the fall heat waves and position of the sun differentiates its crops in subtle and distinctive ways. These California coastal conditions do allow for long hang time. This long grape exposure permits deeper pigmentation and fatter bodied wines. Thus, Viva la difference!!
White Salmon Vineyard's winery produces an Estate Chardonnay available for purchase. (Click to visit the White Salmon Vineyard website.)
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| Sauvignon Blanc
A good inventory of the wonderful 2009 Napa Sauvignon Blanc has allowed us to concentrate and save (w/o any qualitative sacrifice) with our WSV grapes. Cool climate fruit similar to that made famous by their Kiwi cousins.
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| Ice Wine
Riesling, Underwood Mountain, Columbia Gorge
Produced from 2009 juice frozen. The essence of the grapes was taken from the frozen juice, leaving the water behind. 35° to 32° brix. Should be made as a Sauterne style wine. Cost per 375 liter less than $4.00.
Click for More Info
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| Cabernet Sauvignon
Since 1971 I have harvested Cabernet Sauvignon. The home winemakers I harvested and sourced grapes for have explored all the regions of Napa Valley (not county) and Sonoma County. As in most of the grapes I source, the location should be on the cool side of the varietal's growing range. The cooler maturation of the fruit I have come to believe is critical in varietal aromatics and overall character of the wine. While I am still a great lover of Rutherford Bench Cabs, my sourcing has migrated to cooler areas. I have been extremely pleased with the State Lane Cabernet Sauvignon we have offered over the past years. It is highly regarded - and priced - by Paul Hobbs, Nickle & Nickle, and Laird Estates. The lack of demand for this and the wonderful Rutherford Cab we still have in inventory has spoken loud. With great regret I have discontinued these grapes for 2010.
There are many less expensive Cabernets available, but they are not as good. The cost of growing the finest is expensive, and that special wine requires fine grapes. Realizing that there are wonderful Cabs from past years still in BV's inventory, at never again - even in these times- prices, I am basing my 2010 offerings to two outstanding Cabernet Sauvignons that exhibit the best California has to offer.
John Caldwell has been a supporter of wine nuts like us. His wines have gained great distinction. Visit his web site and gain an appreciation of the devotion and energy he and his family have devoted to his wonderful vineyard in the Southeast corner of Napa Valley. A section of this vineyard is designated to you - Chateau Home Winemaker. You are not in second place to any Napa Valley winery! (Hugh Johnson's quarterly magazine recently had an article on John - a great read.)
The viticultural excellence of Caldwell in Napa is comparable to Phil Coturri's of Sonoma. Phil has a firm that plants and cares for some of the finest vineyards in Sonoma and Napa. He is devoted to organic farming and one of the very best. One of the more spectacular vineyards he farms is on the very top of the west ridge of the Mayacamas Mountains, above Kenwood. This is the epitome of a mountain top vineyard. This will be our third year in providing this fruit. It is special. The vineyard is organically farmed with the utmost care to provide ultra premium grapes. Mountain fruit ripens with cooler days and warmer nights. While last years inventory is available at below cost pricing, I am reluctant to pass on such a great vineyard - and you shouldn't. When these vineyards pass to a premium winery, they will be contracted for years to come. While times are depressingly difficult, I am hoping the home winemaker is not going to bow out of the finest grapes. Once out, the door will be closed as in France and Italy.
Assuming some of you will pass on the $100/bottle grapes, and settle for the $50/bottle range I am scouring the cool, premium vineyards of Napa, Sonoma and Washington for a deal. The prospects look good for a small patch in the heart of Sonoma Valley, we will see - depending upon your interest.
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| Merlot
Maligned by film and the major component of the best claret style wines in the world, I love good Merlot. Heat is not a forgiving climate for growing Merlot. The cool Carneros has been my favorite region for this wonderful grape. I am presently finishing bottles of 1980 & 1985 made with 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. They are drinkable, and much better than enjoyable. Carneros Merlot has wonderful complexity and rich, full mouth feel. A splash of Merlot in the above Cabs, or the other way around, will make you very happy. I have proved it over and over. You will too.
Brehm Vineyards produce a commercial bottling of Merlot from frozen grapes, available for sale.
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| Zinfandel
Zinfandel is California's grape, no matter what Croatia says. It is one of the most challenging grapes to select a vineyard for and to harvest at the correct moment. The Zin takes on the character of its vineyard and region as demonstratively as any varietal. The Sierra foothills, Lodi, Dry Creek, Paso Robles all define themselves with unique character. It may be that the vines are old enough to extract their personalities from their deep ranging roots. It is more likely the combination of soil and climate. I am a devote of the Dry Creek, North Coast raspberry, blackberry brambling character. Aged in good French of Hungarian oak it can compete with the finest Cabernets. Dry Creek was the source of our Zins in the '70s and early '80s. The price and availability of the 60+-year-old dry farmed Zinfandel from this valley became difficult and expensive.
After sourcing for a few years from Santa Rosa to Dry Creek, I found satisfaction in Windsor and Limerick Lane. These vineyards offered good acidity, bright fruit character and ripeness. Bathed in morning fog and kissed by sufficient afternoon sun, these 60+ year old, dry farmed grapes offered quality and value. Vineyards were shared with Saint Francis Winery for most of the past 20 some years. In 2009 Saint Francis pulled back its high end Zinfandel production. This year a new player has entered our coveted Willey's Windsor Zinfandel. They are buying all the dry farmed Zinfandel and Alicante at higher prices than ever. I actually understand - they are not making this anymore; there is a very limited dwindling supply. At the same time our sales of these particular grapes is at the lowest ebb. The quality has never been higher. These grapes have won the Best of Show, the Lallmand trophy, etc. I cannot risk paying more for these grapes and not being able to sell them. The 2009 are available, discounted and wonderful.
A portion of the Windsor Vineyard is irrigated with vines not quite as old as the portion we have gotten over the last years. The vines are well tended and the fruit will be outstanding. If there is a strong demand I will consider harvesting it. Potential price is listed.
Many years ago I extended my Zinfandel search further north to Mendocino County. Zinfandel here has a very similar character to Windsor/Dry Creek. The vines are as old and some are dry farmed. A region on the west slope of the ridge, running parallel to the Russian River, just south of Ukiah, is called the Talmage Bench. With in this bench I have sourced wonderful Zinfandel and Petite Sirah from Edon Knoll Vineyards. It is a very old dry farmed Italian vineyard created in the early 1900's. It occupies a knoll that is a little cooler in the day than the surrounding country. It blooms and ripens after the Windsor Zinfandel, challenges it in quality and beats it in price. It is a great value. Utilize the Petite Sirah to add further spice and color to your Zinfandel wine - that is the reason they were planted there.
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| Pinot Grigio / Gris
I came to the region of the White Salmon River inspired with dreams of opulent, seductive Pinot Noirs. As in many new adventures I soon encountered a wonderful, different enological surprise. The higher, cooler vineyards of the region were Alsace! Vintage after vintage they produced grapes the envy of any Alsatian vineyard. The differences between the White Salmon region and Alsace are the lack of rot - botrytis and the reglation they can not add acid to their wine. The Alto Adage of Italy also produces quality Pinot Grigio - same grape as Alsatian Pinot Gris. The White Salmon region is as good as the best of Alsace and better than the best of Italy (sorry guys - we do love you). The Underwood Mountain Pinot Grigio is dry farmed at 1400 ft. The very cool climate grapes have always ripened with good sugar, crisp acidity and reasonable pH. They may be finished dry. Malolactic fermentation is often advisable - always for stability.
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| Gewurztraminer
As mentioned in Pinot Grigio, Gewurztraminer performs incredibly in the cooler regions of the Columbia Gorge. It always develops a wonderful leeche nut character. Is highly aromatic. The mouth feel is full with a spicy character leaving a pleasant, lingering sensation. The Gewürztraminer grape ripens with quite low acid. In Alsace, not being able to add acid, the wines are often finished with a slight sweetness. This is not necessary with these Gorge grapes. The presence of botrytis character in a good number of the better Alsatian wines has confused me. In the White Salmon region the grapes ripen very clean. They seem capable of resisting rot. They also ripen quite early. I speculate that over the centuries the Alsatians have learned to plant the Gewürz in plots that ripen very late. They keep the best, warmest sites for the highly valued Riesling. Here we are in our first generation of planting. While we have found the cool climate sites, we use the best ground for what we know will ripen. In many of these sites the ripening of current clones of Riesling are not possible. These grapes have won 'Best of Show' at every serious national competition. The modest price goes with an exceptional wine. These wines will age, giving great pleasure, for six to eight years. The juice may also be utilized with pleasing results when combined with the WSV Chardonnay. Equal parts of Gewürz and Chard make a great Spicy White.
We make both Gewürztraminer and Spicy White at our White Salmon Vineyard winery.
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