Photo: The rolling Chalk Hill Sangiovese vines. (Click to enlarge)

2008 Harvest Report: Sangiovese: When I started selling wine grapes there was Green Hungarian, French Columbard, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mataro, Grey Riesling, Grenache, Carignano, Petite Sirah, but virtually no Syrah, Merlot, Cab Franc, Malbec, Nebbiolo, Chardonnay, Gruner?….the list continues to expand at an accelerating rate. Each of these grape vines produces the best grapes under certain, usually unique conditions. Some vines are more demanding than others in their growing environment. Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo may be two of the most demanding varietals, but Sangiovese is a very close second. Regular customers have requested and joined my quest for the ultimate expression of Tuscany. I am not Italian, but many of my customers are. They have joined the quest for an outstanding Sangiovese. We searched the Santa Barbara region with mixed results and then moved to a stony bluff just east of the Russian River in the Chalk Hill AVA. The correct clone planted on very poor soil where it could achieve it late season ripeness was found. Then we had to join hands with the grower to figure out how to grow it. Past vintages from this Chalk Hill site showed signs of greatness, but the sugars and acids tended to be out of balance. Final wines needed blending to bring the disjointed Sangiovese into balance. This year, after years of trying, patience has paid off. We have a great 2008 Sangiovese and we have a good amount of it.

As a pure Sangiovese only a drop of acidulated water and a pinch of tartaric acid will bring you over the Ponte Vichio into real Tuscan wine. Just remember to add yeast nutrient after fermentation starts and at 12°brix - no later. This grape, like the Alexander Valley Syrah is grown on rock. There is sufficient nitrogen for the plant, but not for a successful fermentation. Super Tuscans may use Malbec to intensify color, Merlot and/or Cabernet Franc for complication….how sweet it is.

Recommended Yeast: BM45; VRB