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Botrytis Cinerea : The
Noble Rot
"The nectar produced from
white grapes infected with the Botrytis Cinerea, also
known as the noble rot, is the wine of Kings and Queens. It is
a rare occasion when white grapes become infected with
a heavy concentration of botrytis."
Photo Left : Botrytised White Reisling
grapes. Notice the clumped, moldy appearance.
The sweet rot uses tartaric
acid as a fuel source and in the process, dehydrates the grapes
thereby concentrating the sugars. The very distinctive flavor
and aromatics of the botrytis overwhelms the varietal characteristics
of the grapes themselves. Botrytis infected fruit such as Semillon,
Sauvignon Blanc, Muscat, Trockenbeerenauslaser (White Reisling)
are used for Sauternes and many other sweet wines around the
world. I have made wine from botrytis infected Chardonnay with
very good results and the wine made from 1997 Botrytised Sauvignon
Blanc was incredible. Though the flavor characteristics are dominated
by the mold's character, the basic fermentation characteristics
of the varietal persist.
One can not plan for a harvest
of Botritised grapes, in fact, we try to avoid it. Every couple
of years, a grower will call with rotten grapes. If the rot is
sweet, I must act at once.
I do not know what grape, I
do not know from which vineyard, nor do I know the price (but
the price will always be higher than the uninfected grapes due
to greatly diminished yields). I do know that I must have your
order before harvest. This is an act of faith on your part, but
it is the only way that I afford the chance to provide you with
these special grapes. It has worked well in the past and the
achievements of many clients are now legend. Be prepared for
high prices and a very sweet experience."
- Peter Brehm
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