2008 Vintage Report

Best wishes for complete fermentations to all Home WINEMAKERS.

Another vintage has been harvested and on the way to your fermenters and history. While all vintages leave their personality imprinted on the grapes, 2008 imprinted more aggressively than most. Clients, who toured the vineyards of Napa and Sonoma with us in May, witnessed the major climatic effect of this year. It impacted all of California and the Northwest.

Since February, it was very dry in California. A major drought event was avoided by barely adequate rain in November and December 2007. Thus this vintage, as all others, begins in the withering state of the previous vintage.

California's barely sufficient availability of water often restricted irrigation and water use. Survival and health of the vine overcame normal considerations. While winter was otherwise kind to vineyards North and South, the spring brought rapids of cool to cold, dry air that set a noticeable scar on many vines and contributed to the overall low volume of grapes harvested in 2008. 

All things happen in time, and Springtime is critical for the vintage. The bud-numbing chill in California covered the West coast. It became the retarding force of the Northwest's bud break. While the NW missed some of the pain in California, the cold Spring appears to have reduced yields and shortened the vintage by over two weeks. Warm climate vineyards East of the Cascades were less affected by the late start.

The vulnerability of the womb of the grape cluster, the vine's bud, depends on its stage of development. The timing of the cold with the maturity of the bud produces unique results. The impacts of the cool spring in the Northwest were generally common to all varietals. In California the varietals that bud out early, or were pruned early, were affected more by the cold than varietals that bud out later. Thus the impact of the cold in CA on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay was dramatic, and left an imprint on other early and mid season varietals.

A reasonable, summer growing season followed. The Northwest was unable to gain upon any maturity from its late start.

As Fall approached most of California's early maturing varietals were carrying 30 to 70 percent of their normal weight. Keeping global warming on track, early Fall demonstrated a statistical voiding of California's cold Spring's impact. Hot, very dry air and sun accelerated sugar accumulation in the grapes. It accelerated the harvest of Pinot Noir and gave a searing kiss to many Zinfandels. A few early varietals were harvested just before this intense heat. Late maturing varietals weathered the heat reasonably well. Vineyards with adequate water reserves did better.

While the first rains of the Fall season were dusting the west side of the Northwest, cool air pushed out the heat in the North and South. The California air retained a bit more of the marine moisture. In the coastal shadow of California the vines stopped accumulating sugar. Some vineyards reported decreases in sugar. The vines rested, recovering moisture and allowing their grape skins, seeds and juices to evolve. This lull lasted long days. We are dedicated to the belief that the under ripe character, the color, and balance will progressively fall in place.

And we waited.

It was a little like watching a sail boat race. To the seagull it is a crazy group of white sheets going nowhere.
Then there was the day, the afternoon, the moment when all the remaining grapes became ripe - all on the same afternoon (2:35 pm Friday). This year the fruit went from green to chew me up in a matter of a day. It was insane, and the Indian summer lingered until November.

The Northwest Fall decided to match Spring's kiss of California. A series of very cold nights partially or totally denuded vulnerable parts of vineyards. The two-week late start kept the grapes in the vineyard through periodic showers. The cool weather maintained high acids and very low pHs. Yakima Riesling was at 18.5° with less than 3.0 pH when the grower said he could place my order with another client. We harvested no Yakima Riesling. Columbia Gorge Riesling lost sufficient acid at 20+°brix and was harvested on November 9th.

Thus came the viticultural end of vintage 2008, and the beginning of vintage 2009. Vintage 2009 has begun with extremely low water availability in California and vines, north and south, that retain the impressions of 2008.

What a year. I will save you the verbiage on how these climatic conditions affected the stems and their attachment to the grapes. In short, Destemming of a few grapes in California was a nightmare, we did the very best we could.

Peter Brehm

2008 Vintage Grapes - a winemakers view. Please note the availability of yeasts may require mail ordering from afar. I do not profess an expert knowledge of yeast. All yeasts are from Lallemand's library. A general, all purpose yeast I use is DV-10, for potentially sweet wines Epernay II.

Sauvignon Blanc: The first grape to harvest was from the cool Russian River. The cool spring had left a medium light crop with very low pH. The strategy became to wait and allow the grapes to get above 3.2 pH, with a sugar below 24° brix. This was achieved and a post harvest juice panel profile was done.
Napa's Oak Knoll S.B. carried a greatly reduced crop. A combination of vineyard factors allowed these grapes to pass to perfect maturity balanced and flavorful. Both grapes were clean and not sulphited. Do not add SO2 until the end of sugar fermentation.

-For a dry wine ferment slowly, usually requiring temperature in the 50's. Do not do malolactic fermentation. Use up to 500 ppm of lysozyme to retard malolactic. You may age with light lees and stir every week or so. Maintain a good level of free SO2 once fermentation is completed, this is important. W/o m.l. the wine is not stable. Fining with bentonite before bottling, to eliminate protein, is recommended. This fining eliminates the killing ways of lysozyme. Bottle the wine very clean. 0.45 micron filtration and relatively high levels of SO2 will discourage/reduce malolactic occurrences.

-For an ice wine the RR Sauvignon Blanc has great potential. Separate the ice from the concentrated juice and make sure you capture the cream of tarter on the bottom of the pail. Starting with 33° to 35° should provide an incredible desert wine. An earlier vintage from these grapes is now being served at the 'French Laundry' as a desert wine.

Yeast dry: SVG; BA11; R2; sweet: Epernay II; V1116(K1);

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Pinot Noir: The Carneros and the Columbia Gorge offered the extremes of the vintage. Las Brisas was crippled by the Spring frost. Yields were down 40%. Secondary buds and primary buds, and late primary buds provided undersized clusters. The early Fall heat wave added a final insult to the harvest. Now the aim was to harvest the best possible fruit in the vineyard and forget about so many 115 or other clones. Francis Mahoney worked with us to provide the best-balanced, wine making Pinot from the vineyard. It was a combination of Dijon clones from selected parts of the vineyard. We were able to satisfy all existing orders with quality fruit.

The White Salmon Pinot Noir had a reasonable crop load; it just started two weeks late. An effective spray program and leaf management system allowed the grapes to endure rain and frost in excellent condition. We waited until the end of October to harvest, and how sweet it was. While expected yields were down 20% all home customer orders were filled with very nice Pinot Noir.

Las Brisas Pinot Noir has high sugar and strong acidity. If your well-mixed grapes have a sugar in excess of 25.5° brix, do consider an acidulated water addition before fermentation. No SO2 was added to either grape. Las Brisas has a much lower tannic structure than White Salmon. Both will benefit from a slow start and then active fermentation to 85°F. Both should have yeast nutrient at 12° brix. The White Salmon will benefit with a 'Rack and Return' at 12°brix, not as necessary for the Las Brisas. The WSV should be pressed before dryness and the end of fermentation should have less 'push downs' and agitation. Both require malolactic fermentations and SO2 additions after ML.

Yeast: AMH; RA17; RC212

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Chardonnay: The Carneros and the Columbia Gorge offered different results. The Sangiacomo's farming expertise kept our wonderful 'Home Ranch' fruit protected from the cold Spring weather. The berries were smaller than usual and the resulting juice is almost perfect. The White Salmon Chardonnay also was harvested clean and balanced. Do not be fooled by the relatively low brix (it would have been higher if the season was 2 weeks longer), the glucose and fructose content will allow a solid 12%+ alcohol. Neither grape received SO2 at pressing. Do not add SO2 until the end of malolactic - and add according to the pH. PH 3.5 = 50ppm. Both wines should undergo malolactic fermentation. Keep light lees for stirring. Use just a touch of French oak. Fine with bentonite, approximately 1 oz. per 5 gallons for the Carneros, up to 4 times more for the White Salmon.

Yeast: CY3079; ICV D47

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Malbec: The impacts of the Spring in the NW limited yields to about 1 ton per acre, while also limiting cluster weight in our Russian River vineyard. The RR Malbec looked exceptional to me from the start. A little high in sugar, a little low in acid, the RR Malbec came in with wonderful flavors and ripe character. The Columbia Gorge Malbec had an extremely small crop for large, mature vines. It appears that grape vines respond to a very light crop by ignoring their usual input of sugar. The enzymatic trigger that gets the leaves, vine and berries working to sweeten the fruit, does not fully engage. While the skins and seeds mature, the sugar remains retarded. Thus is the Columbia Gorge Malbec. It can use a dose of granular sunshine on its own, or be a perfect match with high sugar and low acid reds - both Malbecs together make the perfect must. The RR Malbec, on its own should have an ounce of tartaric acid added before fermentation as well as the addition of acidulated water to reduce the sugar to 25° brix. Neither grape has SO2 added. Add SO2 after malolactic fermentation. Ferment to 85°F. These are great blenders with almost all black varietals from Pinot Noir to ZIN to Cabernet.

Yeast: ICV - D21

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Zinfandel: The varying locations and age of our Zinfandel vineyards showed a wide diversity of grapes. The Dommen old vine Zinfandel got wacked by the frost. Yield was 1/3 of normal. The very low head pruned vines shielded what grapes there were from the heat. The head pruned, dry farmed Limerick Lane Zinfandel also had a light crop. Being above the Russian River fog, being grown on higher pruned vines, the Limerick Lane got toasted, raisened right on the vine. The Hopland and Russian River Zins all suffered the same intense heat. Having some irrigation available to them, being younger, trained on a wired trellis, the grapes were able to hold onto sufficient moisture to retain a semblance of normal Zinfandel. Only the Edon Knoll, old head pruned and unirrigated, was allowed a normal season. It was saved by its cool hill top location that buds out 2-3 weeks later than our other Zins.

- All the Zinfandels were destemmed without SO2. No SO2 is needed until after ML. All Zins should be tested for sugar after thawing and soaking. Sugars should be diluted to at least 25.5°brix for a dry wine with acidulated water or lower brix blending grapes. The Limmerick Lane Zin suffered the most extensive dehydration turning into a version of Vin Santo. I would use these grapes for desert wine. I would recommend blending Malbec for lower sugar, acidity and color, Grenache for body, aromatics and complexity as well. The Edon Knoll and Windsor are classics, requiring careful monitoring, but not possessing the same degree of heat affected fruit. All the Zin will benefit by at least a splash of Carignane.

Yeast dry: BM 45; Enoferm L2226

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Syrah: Syrah acted like it was completely happy with the crazy weather. Both hilltop vineyards avoided the frost and soaked in the heat. Both Syrahs will produce fine wines on their own or in Grenache/Carignane blends or even with Cabernet Sauvignon. The Stage Gulch was fragile by the time it had shed its green flavors, the Alexander Valley pickings were mature and in excellent condition. No SO2 was added at destemming. Add SO2 after malolactic fermentation. The rocky soil of the Alexander Valley produces grapes that MUST have two additions of yeast nutrient to avoid H2S, or stuck fermentation. Standard red wine fermentation recommended. Do consider Carignane and/or Grenache blending to provide earlier drinking. I am drinking 1998 Alexander V. Syrah that has now reached maximum pleasure.

Yeast: D254

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Gewurztraminer: These grapes were pressed and pailed with out the addition of SO2. One of the great aromatic whites God gave us is Gewurz. The Columbia Gorge produces great Gewurztraminer year after year, and this year was no exception. This year the spice started early and we just waited for the sugar to balance it out. A very light crop reduced our yield while the spice continued. Gewurz loses its acid fairly early and usually requires a tartaric acid addition. The addition of 1.4 ounces of tartaric acid will bring this juice into range. Made dry you can do without malolactic (use lysozyme and SO2 to inhibit ml) or make with ml and lees stirring. These are my favorite ways, always dry, one like a Riesling and the other like a Chardonnay. Another pleasing wine uses equal parts Gewurztraminer and WSV Chardonnay. Combine the two grapes and make as a Chardonnay - no oak, with a malolactic. This produces a spicy white that finishes with a pleasing, soft finish. These are grapes that please.

Yeast: BA 11; R2; 58W3

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Merlot: Merlot is prone to 'shatter', coulure. This is the excessive shedding of ovaries or very young berries. It leaves a stem with just a few berries. Brehm Vineyards' Carneros and Suscol Ranch Merlot suffered severe shatter. Yields were less than 2 tons per acre. This condition just affects the berries and not the rest of the vine, though the extremely light fruit load may allow the vine to forget its obligation to provide sugar to the fruit. The Carneros Merlot came in tasting very good. A small addition of acidulated water, or lower brix grapes, combined with a half ounce of tartaric acid per pail will give you a good start. Blended with 20% Russian River or Chalk Hill Cabernet Sauvignon should make a wonderful, good aging, fine drinking wine.

The Suscol Ranch Merlot, grown at the Chardonnay Golf course just east of the Napa's Carneros, had a difficult harvest. The vine rows run east to west. When we destemmed the grapes the majority of the fruit tested between 23° and 26° brix. Near the end of the destemming the grapes changed, the stems became greener and the sugar ranged from 20° to 21° brix. What happened? I consulted with Justin Laird our grower. We had hit a portion of the vineyard where the grapes on the north side of the vines had dramatically less sugar than those on the south facing side. We continued the crush of the grapes labeling the lower sugar pails as a separate lot - Lot A. Even though the yields of Merlot from these vines averaged about 1.3 tons per acre, far below the farming cost, Justin volunteered to supplement the low sugar fruit with a picking of just the south side fruit. I supervised a crew of 20 pickers to just pick the south side of the rows and gave birth to the South Suscol Ranch Merlot. While the Suscol Ranch Merlot has a unique, highly desirable character, its history of very low yields may mean an end to this varietal here…get it while it lasts, it is special. I wish to express my appreciation to Justin for his generous solution to a real problem.

We have three Suscol Ranch Merlots. The low sugar version is a great way to lower high sugar grapes at a give away price. The South side picking and the regular picking offer high quality that may require dilution with acidulated water. As a primary or secondary component, these are the grapes for your finest version of a Bordeaux style wine.
Nun's Canyon Merlot is a late arrival into Brehm Vineyards' selection of grapes. Another project had me source Cabernet Sauvignon on the very western peak of the Mayacamas Mountains above the Sonoma Valley. This terraced, top of the world vineyard is on the west side of Kisler's Chardonnay vineyard. When harvesting the Cabernet Sauvignon, the grower asked if I would like the Cab. Franc and Merlot. Being the grape junkie I am, I could not resist these mountain top black diamonds. They are fully ripe and full of the volcanic, mountain character. The pH needs to be lowered with tartaric acid or a low ph blender. The sugar should be adjusted to 25.5°. If you are searching for the BEST, these grapes will make you happy, and may end your search.

Yeast: IVC-D21; Enoferm BDX

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Grenache: Extremely old vines have provided us with a Grenache that is ideal for rosé or blending. The fickle weather had these head pruned vines producing low sugar grapes near the end of the season. The mature condition of the fruit made the harvest desirable. This is an ideal blender with Zinfandel, Carignane and Syrah. Add a hint of strawberries, a lushness of fruit to your wines, lower the resulting alcohol in your future wine. Add 60 ppm SO2 before fermentation, limited skin exposure recommended, do a malolactic fermentation.
Yeast: IVC-RGE; ICV-D254

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Sangiovese: When I started selling wine grapes there was Green Hungarian, French Columbard, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mataro, Grey Riesling, Grenache, Carignano, Petite Sirah, but virtually no Syrah, Merlot, Cab Franc, Malbec, Nebbiolo, Chardonnay, Gruner?….the list continues to expand at an accelerating rate. Each of these grape vines produces the best grapes under certain, usually unique conditions. Some vines are more demanding than others in their growing environment. Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo may be two of the most demanding varietals, but Sangiovese is a very close second. Regular customers have requested and joined my quest for the ultimate expression of Tuscany. I am not Italian, but many of my customers are. They have joined the quest for an outstanding Sangiovese. We searched the Santa Barbara region with mixed results and then moved to a stony bluff just east of the Russian River in the Chalk Hill AVA. The correct clone planted on very poor soil where it could achieve it late season ripeness was found. Then we had to join hands with the grower to figure out how to grow it. Past vintages from this Chalk Hill site showed signs of greatness,but the sugars and acids tended to be out of balance. Final wines needed blending to bring the disjointed Sangiovese into balance. This year, after years of trying, patience has paid off. We have a great 2008 Sangiovese and we have a good amount of it.

As a pure Sangiovese only a drop of acidulated water and a pinch of tartaric acid will bring you over the Ponte Vichio into real Tuscan wine. Just remember to add yeast nutrient after fermentation starts and at 12°brix - no later. This grape, like the Alexander Valley Syrah is grown on rock. There is sufficient nitrogen for the plant, but not for a successful fermentation. Super Tuscans may use Malbec to intensify color, Merlot and/or Cabernet Franc for complication….how sweet it is.

Yeast: BM45; VRB

“Paul- or whomever gets this: I wanted to let you guys know that it took my '03 Sangiovese FIVE (5) years to get good! Unfortunately, now that it is good, there is none left because I kept opening bottles to see if it had gotten any better. It never got any better. One bottle after the next went down the drain. Then, all of a sudden, it was the best Sangiovese I have ever had. I thought I had a green seed problem with this one, but I guess it was just non-aged rough tannins. Anyway, it turned out to be great. Have you all had this experience with that wine taking so long to get good?”
Gary

Gary,
This one will last a lot longer than 5 years, but should be drinkable a lot sooner.
Peter

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Cabernet Franc: For years we harvested a special patch of Cab Franc on the top of Sonoma Mountain. Tasting of the wines, especially older wines, showed that they were often preferred over the neighboring Cabernet Sauvignon. They were difficult to distinguish from the best Cabernet Sauvignons. New owners and that dirty louse led to the demise of the vineyard. Brehm Vineyards three Cabernet Francs offer premier, front row billing as forceful, rich, complicated wines. We continue with the tradition in our present vineyards, vines and grapes. They are in the Chavel Blanc tradition and not just mid weight fruity wines. They excel in blends with Merlot and can play a backup role with Cabernet Sauvignon. The three vineyards are unique and quite different. The Caldwell old vine Cab Franc carries on the vineyard tradition of very high sugars and very mature phenolics. The very mature skins provide deep color and richness. These skins also allow the wine to be drunk, given the dilution with acidulated water has made the alcohol bearable, quite early. A customer informed me he received a silver medal from the American Wine Society Judging when the wine was but five months old. On its own or complicated with Suscol Merlot and a bit of Petite Verdot, this is what makes Napa great. The Russian River Cab Franc carried a relatively low crop this year. It has become the replacement for our former Sonoma Mountain Cab Franc. It has produced wonderful, classic wines over the last couple of vintages. A half-ounce of tartaric acid per pail, with later additions of yeast food will make fine Bordeaux styled wine. Consider blends with the Carneros Merlot, Russian River and Chalk Hill Cabernet Sauvignon for classy Meritage style wine. The Nun's Canyon Cab Franc came in at the last moment with the Nun's Canyon Merlot. These are incredible grapes from an incredible vineyard. The plan is to start selling both these grapes at low prices. Within 2 years these grapes will be at, or exceed Caldwell Vineyard's prices. The extreme nature of this vineyard with its shale rocks, almost purple, red volcanic soil can only lead to outstanding wine. A blend of these two Mountain top grapes may be the high point of an expert's wine making career. All of these Cabernet Francs will please you.

Yeast: MT; D254

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Cabernet Sauvignon: This season Paul and I wished to expand Brehm Vineyards' presence in freezers closer to our customers. Our Gewurztraminer and Chardonnay were reliable and some of the best anywhere. We lead with them last year and a light crop of Cabs did not allow us to compliment these local inventories with the reds you love best. This vintage I expanded our tonnage in Caldwell, State Lane and Russian River vineyards. I moved our parcel site in the Garvey Family's Rutherford vineyard to lighter soil. The old, organic Old Hill vineyard yields were reduced due to age and advancing phylloxera. All of these Cabernets came in clean with ripe skins, mature tannins and no hint of green. The long wait between the drying days of early harvest and the maturity of these late varietals allowed maturity of all of the berries, not just the sugar. This may prove to be a great Bordeaux variety vintage. Do not be put off by the pHs. Acid additions of tartaric acid will bring most in line. A starting pH of 3.6 is acceptable for quality wine making. As the wines progress remember to adjust for acid and to periodically add SO2 to maintain a decent free SO2 buffer against oxidation and bad bugs. All these Cabs will benefit by barrel aging or exposure to French oak additives. Do not leave the wine in a new barrel for a year - please. The Old Hill and Garvey Family (at the end of White Hall Lane) are farmed organically, are farmed by the best viticulturists I know, and have the oldest vines of the Cabernet I sell. The State Lane grapes produce classic Napa Cabernet. They sit on an alluvial fan that made Beringer Reserve Cabernets famous years ago. I am expanding our position in this area. Next year we will begin marketing a newly planted, tightly spaced vineyard on the Stags Leap side of the State Lane Road. The Chalk Hill and Russian River Cabernets are our meat and potato Bordeauxs. They display the best of the Sonoma Valley. They will produce rich, intense wines on their own or accept complication from our assortment of Merlot, Cab Franc, Malbec and Petite Verdot. Paul and I achieved our wish, having a splendid assortment of Bordeaux varietals available for you. Now that fine wine making can happen all year round, finish off that Lodi wine and have some fun with some of the finest grapes in this world, even including France and Italy!

Yeast: ICV-D21; D254; Enoferm BDX

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Petite Verdot: This is our second harvest of Petite Verdot. It comes from a hillside vineyard across the Jamieson Canyon Road from the Chardonnay Golf Course, the source of our Suscol Ranch Merlot. This region is south of the town of Napa, just east of the cool Carneros. The vines were kissed by the spring frost, but managed to produce a small crop of intense, dark grapes of good balance. Petite Verdot will add depth, richness and intensity to your red wines. While the most expensive grape of the year, a little will go a long way. Consider two to three pails to have a carboy or two available as first aid or the enhancer in your cellar. I can't wait to taste a 100% Petite Verdot from these grapes, I will bring my toothbrush.

Yeast: ICV-D21; D254; Enoferm BDX

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Carignane: I touted and waxed long about these 104 year old vines. As the principal component of the region's delicious Italian field blends, they reign supreme. There are, now, highly regarded varietal Rhone Carignane's marketed by the likes of Kermit Lynch. This Carignane has character and personality you will thoroughly enjoy. It is also a blender that improves Zinfandel, Syrah, Grenache and can even reduce the cost of Cabernet. These are not Valley Carignane. These century old vines mature potent grapes on a bench above Faliz Creek in Mendocino County. They are organically farmed on light loam and shale. I have my neck out on this one and these grapes will prove me right. A tad of acid and you are on your way to very nice wine, drinkable quite soon.

Yeast: ICV-D254; Enoferm BDX

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Pinot Grigio/Gris: The cooler vineyards of the Columbia River Gorge produce the finest Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer this side of Alsace. The only attribute not presently found in the Gorge is that the Alsatian climate allows botrytis. Crisp acid and low pH make these grapes ideal for fresh early consumption. They will Grigio with the very best of Fruili. Besides covering the acid with sugar, you can achieve a less acidic wine with the following procedures or a combination of the two methods.

Frozen juice creates a separation of the water and sugar. Freezing also affects the solvency of tartaric acid. When subjected to cold, or alcohol, the tartaric acid combines with potassium to form cream of tarter. A portion of the tartaric acid becomes a granular sediment on the bottom of the grape pail. In most cases it is important to combine this acidic sediment with your juice / grapes. If there is a high acid in the frozen juice, minimize stirring before removing juice from the newly thawed pail. Carefully harvest the sediment into a separate container. Be sure to have all the sugar with the juice while keeping a good portion of the cream of tarter separated. This process will reduce the acid in your juice / grapes to the point you can test your juice for acid. You can then do a malolactic fermentation if the acid is still higher than you want (0.75 TA or below will not benefit from a malolactic fermentation). If you have reduced the acid to 0.6 TA or below, add some of the recovered cream of tarter till you achieve 0.7 TA. If you start at 0.75 or lower, add lysozyme and ferment the wine without a malolactic fermentation. If a malolactic fermentation is conducted, the malic conversion to lactic acid may reduce the acid content significantly, even requiring a tasteful acid addition.

Yeast: 71B; 58W3; Uvaferm SVG

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White Riesling: I recently attended an educational tasting of Riesling at the American Wine Society. We tasted wines from the Finger Lakes in New York, Old Mission Peninsula in Michigan, Oregon, Washington and California. It was pointed out that acidity is the basic structure for Riesling as tannin is the basic structure for Cabernet. The pH of a wine sets the environment in which the acid and sugars are perceived. The Napa Valley 2007 Trefethen wine had 0.74 TA with 2.92 pH to be a wine similar to Chardonnay in drink ability. The Sheldrake Point Rieslings both had pHs of 2.83 with 0.83 and 0.93 TA. Only two wines had a pH above 3.1. With almost any other variety such low pHs would translate to under ripe fruit. This and past vintage Riesling from the Gorge are lean and quite beautiful. Paul Gregutt of Wine Enthusiast Magazine recently reviewed Riesling from the Columbia Gorge made by Rich Cushman of Viento Winery. He wrote about a wine receiving '91' from the same vineyard we source most of our grapes. P.G. said, '..the Underwood Mountain vineyard brings a certain illumination and transparency to the Riesling grape. It is a style both elegant and intense, and nowhere else in Washington state except the Columbia Gorge does the Riesling achieve this sort of delicate power. Scents and flavors of blossom, citric and stone fruits combine in a gorgeous display. It's bright, lip-smacking and beautifully balanced.'

The 2008 Riesling does have a good dose of SO2. As mentioned in the Pinot Grigio notes above, you may easily reduce acid by moving the juice off the cream of tarter. You may also isolate a portion of the juice and completely deacidify it. Blend the acid reduced wine back into the total batch. Keep a good acid vibrancy in the wine without a bunch of residual sugar. There should be no malolactic, use of lysozyme is helpful.

Yeast: 71B; DGI 228; Uvaferm SVG; R2; R-HST

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Tempranillo: After the start of harvest a small patch of Tempranillo became available at Las Brisas Vineyard in the Carneros. It was only offered to fresh customers. I believe that standard Calif. red fermentation procedures will work well. It should be noted that this grape commonly has a very low acidity and does require significant amounts of acidulation. Tempranillo is a new grape that will probably take little time to perfect.

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Gruner Veltner: Gruner is a brand new grape for Brehm Vineyards. I would treat it like Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc. Paul Gregutt of Wine Enthusiast Magazine wrote of the grapes from this same vineyard, '…it promises good-maybe great - things to come. Sleek and stony, the wine epitomizes the racy, slightly grassy, slightly peppery quality of classic Austrian Grüner, with a NW twist-a certain brilliant intensity to the fruit that reflects this northern latitude. Clearly the best Grüner from Oregon or Washington to date.' The whites of the Columbia Gorge have a vibrancy rarely found anywhere else. No SO2 was added at the press, only add after fermentation.

Yeast: DGI 228; Uvaferm SVG; R2; R-HST

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Viognier: This may be the coolest grown Viognier in the States. Last year we made this wine at our winery, White Salmon Vineyards. The sugar was low, the acids very high. The wine was fermented and a malolactic fermentation induced. The under valued fruit made an aromatic, vibrant wine quite different from your hot climate Viogniers. It became a great blender to many wines and quite enjoyable on its own. This vintage requires a bit of acid reduction to raise the pH to 3.2 or above. Do a cool fermentation and do a malolactic fermentation. No SO2 was added at the press, add after malolactic fermentation.

Yeast: Rhone 4600

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GRAPE MARKETING & DISTRIBUTION:

Much has changed in the wine world since I opened a home winemaking store in Berkeley, CA in 1970. I started with red concentrate from the Central Valley and the marketing paradigm of Wine Art from British Columbia. Now there is no store. The concentrate has been replaced by some of the finest grapes in North America contained frozen in pails. The cost of transportation has made the availability of these frozen gems better placed in a frozen warehouse in your neighborhood.

We are deciding where we should place our grape inventory to meet your winemaking desires. In addition to Chicago and New Haven, Conn., where would you like to see the grapes available? What varietals would you like to see there? Your input is important to us. The new pails and labels are done according to US and Canadian regulations.

A spring sale seems less likely this year. Our hope is to place our grapes within the reach, it may be a far reach, from your wine fermenting vessels at the best price we can. Then the price increases over time due to storage charges. We know the grapes do not go bad with time, hopefully the price will not need to either.

Do let us know your successful, and not so successful, winemaking experiences and blends. As appropriate, we will share them.

Thanks for a memorable Crush. We wish you good fermentations and a peaceful winter, with a little wine making,
Brehm Vineyards

Peter and Faye Brehm, Paul Rago, Connie Woods, and Silas Bleakley

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VineVisits is a new addition to Brehm Vineyards information flow. At Brehm Vineyards we grow our own Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and contract directly with quality growers for the remainder. The vineyards are visited many times over the course of the season, some in the winter before pruning. Early season visits do not have sugar or pH in mind. Pre-harvest visits monitor vine canopy and grape development. They also offer an insight into each grape. While difficult to translate into words, Peter has documented visits to some of our grapes with his observations. We invite you to view these vineyards and commentaries at our website:

• Click Here for Peter's Vine Visits - July through August.
• Click Here for Peter's Vine Visits - Aug. 29th through Sept. 1st